Here you can see the
connection detail of how the igniter wires are connected. We use a
standard servo connector, the igniter wires fit snugly, after the
individual pins are removed, tweaked, and reinserted in the connector
shell. They pass through a rubber grommet.
A little epoxy in the
grommet prevents the wire from moving around. Towards the left,
you can see a few pairs of my "Geek-o-Vision" glasses.
They are 2.0x and 3.0x magnifiers, with LED's mounted on the temples for
illumination. They work FANTASTIC, but you look like an idiot.
Here is a photo taken
from the construction of the full-scale mockup on
As you can see, this will be a challenge. There are 2
hydraulic actuators, that move arms on the unit. Where the hell
am I going to find little actuator arms like that??
Then I remembered using
cut-down T-Rex 450 mixing arms to get a unique pivot arm for the sliding
doors on the Dauphin. In this case, I got a handful of mixing arms
for the tiny T-Rex 250! It's really handy that all these parts are
identical, except for the size, from the 700 all the way down to
the tiny 250......
This picture is really
crappy, the camera kept "flaring" on me, and I didn't notice
it... Anyway, I attached the ball links and cut-down mix arms to
the aluminum plates. The cut-out is simulated with a graphic made
on a color laser. The metal was too thin for anything but a punch, and I
didn't have a 9mm rounded-corner square punch handy...
I made the hydraulic
actuators, and the 4-way distribution hub on the lathe. I cross
drilled the holes for the hub on the drill press, then cut them
off. I am still learning the Mill & Lathe, so I end up
making about 2.5 parts for every one that comes out useable!
Here is one of the
completed side panels for the ADF Pod. You can see the Trex 250
mixer arms and ball links. I used black wire for the hydraulic
lines, I may or may not paint them silver as in the photograph of the
full scale mockup.
Now for final
assembly. The three tubes are settled in on a bed of "Shoe
Goo", and aluminum tape simulates the sheet aluminum straps that
hold all the pieces together. A few drops with the hypo from the
Starwood Rivet kit, and then the rivet heads get painted black.
I was able to get a really
nice satin finish, by taking 2-part automotive clear, and thinning it a
bit with UR-40 reducer. Then, I used an Iwata Hi-line TH airbrush
(which has a fan tip, scaled-down from larger guns), and sprayed a very
fine mist from 6 to 8 inches, over several coats. I was able to get a
durable automotive finish with a matte texture.
LATE Saturday night, I made
a hasty test fixture with a cut out piece of shelving, that I drilled
the bolt pattern of the ADF Pod onto, wiring a switch and a LiPo up, so
we can actually test fire this thing! I was only able to load
tubes 1 & 3, as the center tube's breech is stuck (a bit of clear
coat), and the Shoe Goo has not fully set, so I don't want to
"muscle" it off just yet...
had a bad igniter on tube one, but tube 3 fired fine. We will get
all three tubes to fire sequentially for the final version, and I have
located a source for more reliable igniters!