ADF Pod Pt.2

Here you can see the connection detail of how the igniter wires are connected.  We use a standard servo connector, the igniter wires fit snugly, after the individual pins are removed, tweaked, and reinserted in the connector shell.  They pass through a rubber grommet.


A little epoxy in the grommet prevents the wire from moving around.  Towards the left, you can see a few pairs of my "Geek-o-Vision" glasses.  They are 2.0x and 3.0x magnifiers, with LED's mounted on the temples for illumination.  They work FANTASTIC, but you look like an idiot.


Here is a photo taken from the construction of the full-scale mockup on  As you can see, this will be a challenge.  There are 2 hydraulic actuators, that move arms on the unit.  Where the hell am I going to find little actuator arms like that??


Then I remembered using cut-down T-Rex 450 mixing arms to get a unique pivot arm for the sliding doors on the Dauphin.  In this case, I got a handful of mixing arms for the tiny T-Rex 250!  It's really handy that all these parts are identical, except for the size, from the 700  all the way down to the tiny 250......


This picture is really crappy, the camera kept "flaring" on me, and I didn't notice it...  Anyway, I attached the ball links and cut-down mix arms to the aluminum plates.  The cut-out is simulated with a graphic made on a color laser. The metal was too thin for anything but a punch, and I didn't have a 9mm rounded-corner square punch handy...


I made the hydraulic actuators, and the 4-way distribution hub on the lathe.  I cross drilled the holes for the hub on the drill press, then cut them off.  I am still learning the Mill & Lathe, so I end up making about 2.5 parts for every one that comes out useable!


Here is one of the completed side panels for the ADF Pod.  You can see the Trex 250 mixer arms and ball links.  I used black wire for the hydraulic lines, I may or may not paint them silver as in the photograph of the full scale mockup.  


Now for final assembly.  The three tubes are settled in on a bed of "Shoe Goo", and aluminum tape simulates the sheet aluminum straps that hold all the pieces together.  A few drops with the hypo from the Starwood Rivet kit, and then the rivet heads get painted black.


I was able to get a really nice satin finish, by taking 2-part automotive clear, and thinning it a bit with UR-40 reducer.  Then, I used an Iwata Hi-line TH airbrush (which has a fan tip, scaled-down from larger guns), and sprayed a very fine mist from 6 to 8 inches, over several coats. I was able to get a durable automotive finish with a matte texture.


LATE Saturday night, I made a hasty test fixture with a cut out piece of shelving, that I drilled the bolt pattern of the ADF Pod onto, wiring a switch and a LiPo up, so we can actually test fire this thing!  I was only able to load tubes 1 & 3, as the center tube's breech is stuck (a bit of clear coat), and the Shoe Goo has not fully set, so I don't want to "muscle" it off just yet...  


We had a bad igniter on tube one, but tube 3 fired fine.  We will get all three tubes to fire sequentially for the final version, and I have located a source for more reliable igniters!


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