Assembly Part 3


 

Dr. Tim saves the day AGAIN!!!  I had forgotten to get the foot pedals for Airwolf, and nobody seemed to have decent ones in stock!  I called Dr. Tim, and he had ONE.  He graciously cast it, and sent me a pair of "Original Dr Tim Hand cast foot pedals"  They fit perfectly, and here we have the pilots just settling into them:



I decided to add a rear wall to the cockpit, so the mechanics would not be visible.  First, I had to take the "nose" off my mechanics to shorten it, as the mechanics were about an inch too long.  Fortunately, the Trex 700 has a removable "snout" to mount the gyro, and the original rudder servo (which I have mounted on the tail boom anyway)

I replaced the aluminum part with the original plastic one, so I could easily cut it down to size.  A little re-wiring, and changing the cockpit battery type shaved almost two inches off the front of the mechanics! To get the shortest hi-capacity batteries I could find, I ended up using batteries for RC Cars, as they are standardized to fit the pockets the cars are designed with.  I used a pair of 65C 5000 mA Thunder Power batteries as the cockpit draws a LOT of current!

I first used some plumber's solder pressed into the inside profile of the heli to get the outline of the fuselage transferred to blue foam.  A few iterations of the foam finally resulted in the bulkhead shape I needed..

I used Plastistruct plastic to make the bulkhead, as it is for looks, not structural integrity.  I used a diamond plate pattern on the cockpit side, and ran some reinforcing struts on the mechanics side.

Everything fit with room to spare...

And the Diamond-plate, painted and clear coated gives great reflections from the instruments.  I will "tone this down" a bit by adding some equipment mounted on the rear wall.  We want it to look like a cockpit, not a Discotheque!

Moving on to the exhausts, I had hoped to use the Cine-Scale exhausts as patterns to cast parts out of bronze.  Bronze would have discolored PERFECTLY under a blowtorch, and been just what I needed!.. Alas, the people I wanted to use could not do the job in any reasonable time frame, so I decided to go with paint.  
In order to paint a cylindrical surface evenly, I made a turntable out of some blue foam and my power screwdriver:

Here is how they came off the turntable after painting.  Later I applied a matte clear coat to protect the paint.

Like the exhausts, these are "suspended" in the hole in the fuselage, so again- I used epoxy putty to make supports that hold the exhaust in the proper position.  When "mixing" these epoxy sticks, every time you fold them over in half, you double the number of layers.  Folding it over 24 times gives you 2^24 or 16 million layers, which only takes about a minute, and gives you guaranteed molecular-level mixing.  This is the same type of procedure used on those nozzles that automatically mix epoxies as you squirt them through a nozzle, like Aeropoxy / Hysol called binary mixers.  Anyway- enough of this "glue tech"!


One by one, the window glass goes in.  I use window gaskets on the main windshield and doors, as the pre-relieved window glass does not quite match up to the panel openings.  I use Formula 560 to attach the windows to the gaskets and the gaskets to the fuselage.

As always, there HAS to be a pack of cigarettes (or two) in the cockpit.  Since they have impeccable tastes, the pilot smokes the same brand of smokes that I do!   Anti-smoking people can express your displeasure by pressing the <ALT> key and <F4> at the same time!

Here is a view through the door into the cockpit. 


And a head on-view. 


And an video of everything we have done in this session (and a wee bit more!):

 

 



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